Nirmal Purja, a former British Gurkha Soldier and fearless Nepali mountaineer broke the record and astonished the world by climbing all 14 mountains above 8,000 in 6 months and 6 days in 2019. The last fastest record was 7 years. He was appointed a member of the British Empire (MBE) for his outstanding work in high-altitude mountaineering.

He has successfully completed his mission,’ Project Possible’ according to plan with his extraordinary mountaineering talent and management skill. He is popularly known as Nimsdai.

On 28 Oct 2019, he completed his mission by reaching the top of Shisapangma.

Childhood Days

Nirmal Purja was born in a remote village of Myagdi district, in the Dhaulagiri region. He grew up in Chitwan after his family moved there at a very young age. He was the youngest among four sons in the family. He liked facing challenges of any kind since his childhood. 

From Soldier to Mountaineer

He had been recruited in the British Gurkha in 2003. The biggest thing he had learnt in the Gurkha army is competing with oneself and be better than before. After having served 6 years in the Brigade of Gurkhas, he joined SBS (Special Boat Service) Britain’s maritime Special Forces unit in 2009 becoming the first Gurkha to be selected in history. 

‘It was a great honor for me to represent my country to be in UK Special force,’ he says proudly. While in the force he had learned to handle every situation and keep his mind under control. The whole experience in the SBS had given him the confidence to take on whatever massive challenges come along the way.

Following his Dream

He hadn’t set foot on the mountain until 2012. He summited Amadabalam, Dhaulagiri in 2014, and Mount Everest in 2016 during the G200E expedition, Labuche and Lhotse in 2017. Since then he fell in love with the mountain. ‘I started falling in love with physical and mental challenges in the mountains.’ he said.

Reinhold Messner, a legendary Italian climber was the first mountaineer to ascent all the 14 peaks in 16 years completing and holding the record in the year 1986. Then Jerzy Kukuczka of Poland took seven years, 11 months and 14 days completing in 1987. Later on Kim Chang-ho, of South Korea scaled all the 14 peaks in seven years, 10 months and Six days and broke an earlier record in 2013.

Having deep love and passionate for mountaineering, he planned and dream to do it in 7 months. He resigned from a prestigious British Army job in 2018 to pursue his dream. 

He has carefully divided his missions into 3 phases- Nepal, Pakistan and China sections.

He decided to name his mission ‘Project Possible’ as many people had told him his plan was impossible.

First Phase

His first mission started with Annapurna I (8091 m) world’s tenth highest mountain in the world. He had reached the top on 23 April 2019. 

‘I was extremely thrilled reaching the summit,’ Nims had stated. It was just the beginning.

During Annapurna ascent, their team had rescued a climber left behind in extreme cold up in the mountain. He was accompanied by his teammates Mingma David Sherpa, Gesman Tamang and Phurpa Sonam Sherpa.

After 17 days of his first successful ascent to Annapurna, he continued on his next journey. He set out for his next expedition to Dhaulagiri on 10th May 2019. 

‘I am from Nepal and I knew I had the best team in the world,’ Nims was confident with his team. 

The harsh weather condition in the Dhaulagiri region wasn’t so much favoring for their expedition. The team also had big loads of tents, oxygen, ropes, and other types of equipment.

Heavy snowfall and the extreme wind were so intense. They started climbing at 9.00 pm for the final Summit push. With all the struggle and heroism they reached the summit by next evening at 6.00 PM. It took 21 hours.

On 12 May 2019, they were on the top and shared their joy with each other. ‘It was one of the hardest things I have ever done in my life' Nims remembers.

The next destination was Kanchenjunga. As planned the team reached base camp to execute his onward plan. Usually, climbers take different stages while climbing - camp 1, 2 3 and 4; sleeping overnights and then making final push to the summit. 

‘We have to reach the top in a single day due to unfavorable weather conditions,’ he discussed with his team members.

On 15th May 2019, they made it to the top of Kanchenjunga (8586m). Nims had looked around and said in a mild tone, ‘ Yes, we summited. We are in one of the world’s best mountains in the world.’On the way back down in 100 meters, they met a climber in wretched condition. He had run out of oxygen. 

‘In the military, we never leave behind anyone,’ Nims said,’ so in the mountain, I never gonna do that.’ Nims tried to communicate with other climbers at camp 4 through the radio set and looks for help. ‘Can anyone bring oxygen,’ He shouted for help.

The climber’s health was deteriorating and struggling to survive. But he saw nobody approaching for help.

‘I was helpless, no one came to help,’ Climber died in my arms. It was a sad moment for Nims.
He climbed down helpless and saddened by the incident. His team members were far ahead of him and his oxygen had finished 11 hours ago resulting in him developing HACE (High-altitude cerebral edema) symptoms. He didn’t have enough power and strength. ‘I felt helpless and scared,’ he has said honestly. He needed to go down as soon as possible. With much struggle, he moves on. It was a matter of life and death. Suddenly he starts losing control becoming mentally and physically drained.

He had said after this event, ‘For the first time in life, I started questioning about my plan.’ But at last, he reached the base camp safely.

World records of Nirmal Purja

• Fastest time to climb all fourteen mountains above 8,000 meters.
• Fastest time from summit of Everest to the summit of Lhotse and Makalu.
• Fastest time to climb top five highest mountains in the world: Kanchenjunga, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and K2
• Fastest time to climb all five 8,000-ers of Pakistan: K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, GI and GII in twenty-three days.
• Most 8,000-metre peaks (six) during a single season (spring). Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in thirty-one days.

Mt. Everest Summit

He sets off the journey for his next plan, the world’s highest Mt. Everest. According to Nims, Sherpas are the toughest people on earth, they have supported thousands of western climbers in every expedition in these tallest mountains in the Himalayas. They are hardworking and take an enormous risk to their life. Without their support climbing season doesn’t start at all. They fixes the ropes, create a routes, and carry supplies and equipment for climbers in the Himalayas. He expressed his highest respect and gratitude towards Sherpas. ‘I want to climb these three peaks, the world’s highest, fourth and fifth peaks in the world in 48 hours.’ Nims shared his plan with the team.

They cheered up with whisky and wishes good luck for their next Everest, Lhotse and Makalu summit. Nims team had gone far ahead of other climbers leaving them behind. They started climbing at 5.30 am in the morning. On 22 May they reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain in the world. On 22 May they reached the summit of the world’s highest mountain in the world. 

‘On reaching the top, one’s soul becomes part of the mountain. It makes you feel alive, just Looking at the amazing 360-degree mountain view. You are on the top of the world, surrounded by snow-clad mountains all around.’ Nims applauded. In spring 2019 there were over 400 climbers with 400 Sherpas who were targeting to reach the top in a two-day weather window.

There was a long queue resulting in traffic jams in the Everest. In the meantime, climbers were ascending and descending.

As he descended, he clicked a picture of a traffic jam. The photo has gone viral making big media coverage worldwide - Crowd, traffic jam in the Everest. ‘The image was big media buzz worldwide and went crazy.’ he remembered. ‘But I was focused on my plan and move on to next destination.’

On the same day, he reached Lhotse summit, and also Makalu top on 24th May. In 48 hours, he had summited Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu as planned. It was a world record made.

He made an announcement at the top of Makalu and said, ‘It was an epic moment, the first phase of Project Possible ended here.’

Meeting his Mum Back in Kathmandu

 

On returning to Kathmandu, he directly went to meet his ailing mum where she was undergoing treatment.

He humbly greeted his mum bowing down and sat beside her. Mum asked him, ‘ how many mountains did you climb?’ Nims replied,’ I’ve climbed six mountains- Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Mt. Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.’

His mother asks him curiously –‘’ how many are left to climb?” to which he gently replies-’Eight more.’ 

‘I have seen you in the video, where you were breathing heavily in the mountain, ‘ she says anxiously. As she was speaking Nims lovingly looks at her smiling softly. He warmly hugs his mum and speaks gently wiping off tears from her eyes. It was truly an emotional moment - the mum & son’s unconditional love.

Second Phase

‘8000er peaks in Pakistan are known as the most difficult and inaccessible mountains in the world. It is Also Known As Killer Mountain as it has claimed so many climbers’ life.’
The route to Nanga Parbat was extremely tough. The weather was extremely cold and heavily snowing. 

Nirmal Purja’s achievement is positive news for the Mountaineering community in Nepal and globally. The news of his a complishment has spread worldwide and greatly helped in the promotion of Nepal’s tourism globally. The Himalayas faces some serious issues that threaten the environment, biodiversity and human livelihoods of the region. There are various issues in the mountain like climate change, garbage in the Himalayas along with mountain workers’ wages, social security, etc. ‘ We hope Nims can further help to explore more mountains, create awareness and raise mountain issues globally.’ 
     
        Tika Ram Gurung
        Executive Secretary, 
        Nepal Mountaineering Association

It was tough, extremely cold, and freezing. Heavy and continuous snowfall, made their climbing difficult.

‘The mountain never discriminates any races whether you are black, white, weak or strong. There is one rule for everyone.’ He says. ‘If you give up, you die.’

They made Nanga Parbat Summit on 3 July 2019. The next day, while descending towards the base camp. Suddenly Nims slipped off losing control, he falls at rapid speed. Just then on seeing the rope, with full strength he grasped the rope. He had fallen off around 100 meters below. ‘It was a horrible experience. It completely shook off my inner confidence massively.’ He had said. Then on 15th July 2019, they reached the top of Gasherbrum 1 and on July 18, 2019, Nirmal and his team climbed Gasherbrum II.

The team now was ready for the next plan to Mt. K2, the world’s second-highest. The atmosphere was bad, they met other climbers at the base camp. One of them says, they have been to camp 4 and returned.

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He gives a thumbs-up sign and encourages them saying, ‘ No problems, it is a project possible mission.’ Mountaineers who were stressed at the base camp re-energized by Nims statement. They started partying, ‘Cheers up, brother!’

Nims hailed up, ‘Tonight we drink, and tomorrow we plan! ‘ Everyone had a good party night at the K2 base camp. They enjoyed singing ‘Resham firiri, resham firiri’ song and danced until late at night.

‘This is the unique character of Nims that distinguishes him from the rest of the other. He doesn’t really care what other people think or do,’ Mingma David said.

Record Holder: Mingma David Sherpa (Team Manager at 'Project Possible')

Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (Aka Mingma David Sherpa) is a Nepalese mountaineer and rescue climber. He was the youngest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and held the Guinness World Record for both “Fastest time to climb Everest and K2” and K2 winter first ascent.

He comes from a remote village of Taplejung district the eastern part of Nepal. He started his job as a porter and kitchen boy in 2009. In 2010 he got an opportunity to climb Mt. Everest. He is in the mountaineering sector for over 10 years and is involved in over 100 rescues mission. ‘Mountaineering is all about exploring. We at Project Possible team were like brothers, eating and partying together, ‘ He tells.
Mingma had heard of Nims in 2013 and met him a year later after his Dhaulagiri summit in 2014. The best part about Nimsdai is he makes conclusions and decisions with the advice of everyone, big or small, he said. ‘He is a perfectionist man who needs everything 100% even at 8000 meters. But, adventure is all about going and adapting to the situations and making decisions especially in the mountains.’
Being so close to Nims and Project Possible mission he said ‘Nimsdai loves Nepali food, mostly Pani puri, chatpatte, momo and dal-bhat.’

According to Mingma David, Nimsdai is a wonderful and great leader who handles his job perfectly. We made the impossible possible as teamwork. As good leadership is required to achieve any success, ‘He has demonstrated and proved his leadership very well,’ Mingma David commented. 

Though Nepalese climbers have a long history in the mountaineering world, they haven’t been recognized to the international level. ‘All the Sherpas and mountain community hopes that Nims dai will help in spreading success story and Sherpas' loyalty will be outspread to the international level, ‘ he added.

‘While other groups were summiting GI we were trying K2 and communicating through radio set, competing for each other. Luckily we summited but they failed. In that season around 80% of other groups canceled the expedition. 

On 25 July 2019, Project possible team made a successful ascent (Nims, Gesman and Lakpa dendi) while three other (Mingma, Halung Dorje, Geljen) were at the team backup. 

Soon after 36 hours later the team (Nims, Mingma, Halung Dorje) reached Broad Peak summit. ‘It was the last moment to complete the mission as the season was ending, but we did it ‘ Mingma exclaimed,’ There is no second chance in the mountain, It is the rule of nature.’ With this marked the end of Phase 2, they have submitted the five highest mountains of Pakistan in just 23 days. They conquered the killer mountain (Nanga Parbat), Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, and K2.

Third Phase and Final climb - Mission Accomplished

Nims and his team reached Manaslu Base camp on September 13. Just then he got two bad news. His Shisapangma permit was rejected and the following week Cho Oyu’s entry dateline was ending. The news was a big stress for Nims. 

The deadline for completing the mission was running out of hand, and pressure was more. He rushed to Cho Oyu base camp. ‘Sometimes luck and nature should be favorable, and Nimsdai was lucky as the weather became clear,’ Mingma remembered. He got the last heli flight and then the weather was closed for a week.

Amidst all the pressure he summited Cho Oyu on 23 Sept 2019. Then he came back to Manaslu and reached the top on 27th Sept 2019. He was happy to reach the summit but also was worried about his last summit, Shishapangma.

To scale Shishapangma ‘Nimsdai used two approaches- Firstly, meeting Nepalese politicians, government officials, diplomatic channels and NMA, etc. Next asking help among his thousands of followers through social media,’ Mingma said. He posted a message asking for genuine help from all his followers to request the Chinese government to allow opening the mountain for his mission. 

Huge support from worldwide flooded, mountaineering community from all over the world raised voice for his mission. They requested the Chinese government’s door through email and social media. The idea worked!  While returning from the Manaslu summit to Sama Gaun, he got the news that Shisapanmga special permit was issued from Tibet Mountaineering Association (TMA). 

The project was genuinely for all Sherpas and the mountaineering community around the world. Finally, the Chinese government has an open mountain for him and his team.  It was incredible news. One final mountain to go, Shishapangma (8027 m)! The weather was harsh, crazy. It was dreadful. No one had done Shishapangma since 2014. 

A high wind was approaching and winter was nearer. There was just one day window to the summit. ‘The weather is always unpredictable in the mountain, but it always favored Nimsdai, ‘ Mingma added.

Finally, Nims and the project possible team summitted Shishapangma on 29 Oct 2019.

Nims made his final announcement, ‘ Yes Shishapangma. ‘Project Possible team members celebrated their achievement on the top. He rang his mother through a radio set, ‘the project is over, we did it, mum.’ 

Nims and the team had completed the ‘Project Possible’ mission in six months and six days. He also broke six other mountaineering world records.

Family’s Support and The Tough Time

Both his parents were elderly. His dad, an ex-Gurkha soldier, had suffered heart attack a few years back and mum’s health was deteriorating too. During the mission, his mum had to visit the hospital twice a week. 

‘Being the youngest kid in the family, I have always been mum’s favorite.’ He recalled. ‘I always needed mum’s blessing and moral support to complete the mission,’ he often says,’ The mission is the biggest challenge in my life.’

Every time he goes out and back from the mountain his mum blesses him with Tika.

Nims had tied the knot with Suchi in 2008 at a young age. His wife has always been supportive throughout the mission. ‘She’s an amazing lady with a mentally strong and supportive mind,’ Nirmal was grateful to his wife. ‘Time was running out, until last hour there was no funding, and few months left for raising the fund,’ Suchi remembered a hard time. 

Everything was put at stake - his job, his house remortgage, and the magnitude of the effort of the project. She added Mum’s health got deteriorated between phase 2 and 3. She had a heart attack. 
The moment was extremely tough for Nims. He was so exhausted but Suchi kept motivating him, ‘ Don’t lose your heart. ‘ Then just a miracle happened, after a week. His mum had survived. ‘May God protect you always, my son, ‘ Mum had said in the hospital bed, ‘ May you continue to get more success in your mission, and may the world recognize you.’ He had got very emotional at mum’s words,’ Complete your mission for me son.’

In life you have to keep doing what you believe, Nims says. ‘If you can inspire one or two people in a good way, you can inspire the world.’ Nims’ mum was so strong, she fought with her illness until her youngest son succeeds. 

- Based on Netflix documentary ‘ 14 Peaks’, Book by Nimsdai Purja ‘Beyond Possible’, & in conversation with Mingma David Sherpa
Photo credit: Mingma David Sherpa / Elite Exped